Mobetah in St. Pete Beach Florida just prior to leaving for the Northwestern Caribbean

Mobetah in St. Pete Beach Florida just prior to leaving for the Northwestern Caribbean

About Us

Until his retirement, Bill Was a Landscape Architect for the National Park Service and Pat was a Physical Therapist.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Home to Palm Coast and our "new" life.

The rest of April was spent having fun in Isla Mujeres.  We rented a golf cart to tour the island, went snorkeling to see the underwater statue garden, did a lot of eating out at yummy Mexican eateries,  shopped at the big new grocery store (Chedraui) for boat provisions, and spent time in the new pool at the marina.  We were also there to watch the boats in the St. Petersburg, FL to Isla Mujeres race arrive.  Each boat had a GPS locator, so we could keep track of their position and progress in the race.

We checked out of Mexico on May 5 and headed off for the Gulf of Mexico.  We had hoped to have a nice, comfortable sail to Florida, however, the weather was "too" good, and we ended up with almost no wind or waves.  It made for a safe, but boring three day motor to Key West.  The best part of the trip was being out on the night of the "Super Moon,"  when the full moon was closer to earth than in a long time.  It was really a bright night--we could see almost as well as in daylight.  And the interesting part was that the night before and the night after were just regular full moons.

We arrived in Key West on May 8, checked in with Customs, did a little sightseeing, and listened to Michael McLoud at Schooner Wharf.  We expected to spend a few days in Key West, but there was a predicted weather front in a few days, so we opted to keep going north.  We stopped in Marathon for fuel, and jumped right back in the Gulf Stream heading up the east coast of Florida.  We kept possible stopping points in mind, but were making such good time and the good weather was holding out, so that we went all the way up to Palm Beach inlet before coming in to the IntraCoastal Waterway.  We motored up the ICW and arrived at the Palm Coast Marina on May 15.  From there, we walked the two blocks to our new condo and retrieved the car.

After several weeks of cleaning out, varnishing inside and out, and general maintenance, Mobetah is now tied in a slip at Marina Cove, the condos next to ours.  (We don't have docks.)  She is now up for sale with the Palm Coast Boat Brokerage. 

It is with some melancholy that we watch the Fall parade of boats heading south on the ICW past our condo towards warmer cruising grounds.  But we are ready for our new life as "dirt dwellers," and will forever have all our wonderful memories of the years we spent on Mobetah -- all the wonderful people we met and the exciting places we got to go.

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Merida and Chichen-Itza

After the crowds from Semana Santa diminished, we decided to join Rodney and Katrina for a trip to the Yucatan Peninsula.  Two taxi rides and a ferry ride took us to the bus station in Cancun.  Mexico has a very nice bus system.  We rode one of their higher class buses on the four hour ride west to the city of Merida, which is the capital of Yucatan and is noted for it's architecture and sculptures.  We spent two nights there while touring the old buildings and squares of the city.
Our bus to tour Merida

Old home on "Millionaire's Road"

Another old home

Example of sculpture found throughout the city

Large cathedral on town square

Interior of the cathedral

From Merida, we took another bus west to the town of Piste, which is located right outside the Mayan ruins of Chichen-Itza.  The next morning, we met our guide at 8 AM, so as to miss the big crowds from the tour buses that arrive later in the morning.  Chichen-Itza is one of the most popular tourist sites in Mexico. Our very knowledgeable guide was a young Mayan man who grew up in the town of Piste.  The largest pyramid is one of the new seven wonders of the world.
More Ruins

Rene tells us about the Kukulkan Pyramid

Some other large ruins at Chichen-Itza

Locals selling in the park
One of the things we found different in these ruins as compared to others we have visited is that they allow the local Mayans to set up merchant stalls in the park to sell their wares to the tourists.  Since we got there early, they were still setting up, so did not bother us much.  They disassemble the stalls every night and take everything back to town, often on bicycles. 

The main road into the park

There are always many souvenier shops in the towns also.  This one by our hotel caught our eye.


The morning after we toured the ruins, we stood on the road outside the hotel and caught a second class bus to Cancun.  These always give one a better understanding of the day to day lives of the local Mexican people, since they go through all the little towns, and are a primary form of transportation for the residents.  It makes for a slow, but interesting ride.

Friday, April 20, 2012

Heading "HOME"

On March 21, we finally untied the lines from Monkey Bay Marina in the Rio Dulce and headed Mobetah out of Guatemala.  We spent two night at La Laguna, formerly Texan Bay, from where we took a launcha to Livingston to clear out of the country and indulge in the Garafuna specialty, a seafood soup called Tapado.  The next morning we headed out of the river and across the bar, followed by Angelina.  It turns out, we went a day too soon, as we ended up motoring into a NE wind and waves on the way to Belize.  We spent a few days in Belize visiting with Art and Renie on Jewell, doing some shopping for Belizean items, and anchoring at Colson Cays for snorkeling.  Pat, Rodney and Katrina found seven conch, which Bill cleaned, since he still couldn't get in the water.  Katrina later treated us to conch fritters and cracked conch.


Gathering Conch

Bill cleaning conch

We had two wonderful days of sailing north in near perfect conditions, until we arrived south of Cozumel, Mexico at dusk.  The wind then shifted more northerly, creating "washing machine" waves, so it was a rather uncomfortable night.  Thankfully, we had the current with us, so were able to get to Isla Mujeres by the next afternoon.  We tied up in a slip at Marina Paraiso and turned on the A/C and cable TV!

Marina Paraiso has been bought by a new owner, who is making some much needed changes.  There is a beautiful, new infinity pool, new palapa bar, a restaurant, and repaired docks with new pilings.  There is also a new grocery, Chadraui, in town, so one no longer has to take the ferry to Cancun for decent grocery shopping.
Marina Paraiso

One of the resident Iguanas

We were at the marina for Easter week or Semana Santa, which is an important week in the Central American Countries.  The Good Friday procession went down the street in front of our marina.  They set up stations of the cross at various points along the main road on the island and walk to the main square in front of the biggest church, where they inact the crucifiction and burial of Christ. Along the way, they stop at the stations for readings and singing.


One of the Stations of the Cross



Thursday, April 19, 2012

Tour of Semuc Champey

The morning after our arrival in Lanquin, we signed up for a “complete” tour of the Semuc Champey area. The four of us were joined by four young back packers, from Israel, Germany and Washington, DC. Our tour guide, Carlos, was a young Mayan man, who was very personable and spoke four languages–his native Q’eqchi, Spanish, English, and some Hebrew. (There are a lot of backpackers from Israel in Central America.).
Carlos ready to lead us into cave
We boarded another pick-up truck, with Pat and Katrina again inside, and Bill and Rodney in back with the younger folks. After another bumpy, hilly ride of about 10 miles, we arrived at the Cahabon River. Our first activity was to be a tour of the K’Anba cave. (Which we soon learned was not the Lanquin caves that are part of the park system.) Carlos had picked some achiote pods, which make a bright orange dye and spice, which he used to paint our faces. The only question he asked was if we could swim. He gave each hiker a thin, long candle taper. As we descended into the cave, the candles were the only light available. The cave tour consists of wading through water or, in several places, swimming in water over your heads while trying to hold a candle aloft. Then there were several rope ladders with thin metal rungs used to climb up rock walls. About 100 yards into the pitch black cave, Bill slipped on the rung of a ladder and cut his leg below the knee. The next ladder required going through a very narrow opening, which Bill did not feel comfortable doing. So we opted to turn around and go back to the cave entrance. It is good that there were two of us, as one of our candles went out, and had to be re-lit by the other. When the rest of the group came out of the cave, they said it had become more difficult as they went on. At one time, they had to jump through a hole in the rocks into a waterfall and down into a pool, where the guide was there to pull them up and re-light their candles.  We were all just glad to have survived the "adventure."  (This trip certainly showed us that there may be a difference between an adventure and an ordeal!")

Enter the cave AT YOUR OWN RISK

Ready to enter the cave


On the way down into the cave
 Bill’s wound was bleeding quite a bit, but there were no first-aid supplies available, so he tried to keep it covered with frequent changes of toilet paper! When we finally returned to our hotel later in the afternoon, the girl from Israel dressed it with first-aid supplies she carried in her backpack.

After the cave tour, we were able to relax as we tubed down the river for about a mile. We had to hike back to the starting point, where we crossed a bridge over to the Park entrance to Semuc Champey, which is a natural monument in a valley with steep walls surrounded by a tropical forest. There is a 300 meter long limestone bridge at the bottom, above which are several natural stepped pools of turquoise colored spring water. Our hotel had packed lunches for us, so we stopped to eat at the visitors’ center.

Pat and Rodney relax on the river
 The next activity was to be a hike up to an overlook high above the pools. It consisted of very steep steps going almost straight up, and when we saw the sign stating it was very “dificile,” we four “older” folks decided to forego this part of the tour. We walked straight on in to the pools, where we spent the time wading and swimming while waiting on the rest of our group. We were glad we made this decision, as everyone who came down the hill said it was very difficult. Katrina did send her camera up with one of the backpackers, so we could get pictures looking down at the pools. After spending time enjoying the pools, we walked back out to the bridge and boarded the truck for the ride back to the hotel.

Semuc Champey from observation platform

Swimming holes

The valley of Semuc Champey
 The next morning , we boarded a shuttle going west to the town of Coban. This trip required only about fifteen miles on a gravel road, much better maintained than the others we had been on, and then the rest of the way was on paved roads! We had to transfer to a bus about half way to the Rio, but even though it was a nine hour trip, we were certainly more comfortable than on the direct route we had taken to get to Lanquin.

Monday, March 19, 2012

Trip to Lanquin

While we were waiting for the boat to be launched back in the water, all the other boaters in our marina except Angelina left the river, so it was getting a bit boring.  We, along with Rodney and Katrina, decided to take an inland trip. One of the places many cruisers have on their list is a visit to Semuc Champey, a natural monument in Alta Verapaz, in the middle of Guatemala.  It is a natural bridge in a valley, above which are several stepped, turquoise pools, and is best experienced when there has been rain, so we figured this would be a great time to visit. 

One website states that Semuc Champey is becoming a popular site to visit, but can be a little difficult to get to.  Boy, is that an understatement!  We made reservations on the van from Rio Dulce to the Mayan town of Lanquin, which is close to the monument. We were picked up at noon and joined by four young backpackers, from Slovenia, Germany, Israel, and Austria.  (We are always amazed at the number of young persons from all over the world who set off, frequently by themselves, to backpack across Central America.)  About 45 minutes into the trip, we turned off onto a gravel/dirt road which wound itself up into the mountains.  With all the recent rains, the road was rather bumpy, and there are no guard rails on the side of the road overlooking deep drops in the hillside.  Since there was no A/C on the van, the windows had to be opened, making for a rather dusty ride.

After about two hours, the van turned into a guarded, fenced compound, which turned out to be a camp where the workers in the near-by nickle mines lived.  We were discharged and our luggage taken off the van.   We met up with another group of young travelers on the way from Lanquin (our destination) to the Rio Dulce.  Their van had broken down, and somehow they were brought to this camp, after what they described as a harrowing six hour journey.  They were loaded into our van, which then turned back the way we had come.  We sat for about an hour until a pick-up truck arrived, on which they started loading our bags.  Katrina and Pat, as the two "older" women, sat in the front, and the other six climbed into the back. The driver, who spoke only Spanish,  was one of the mine workers who lives in Lanquin and was on his way home for his once or twice per month visit.  We spent the next four hours on a very narrow muddy road full of ruts and potholes.  The driver honked the horn, or flashed his lights after dark, whenever he came to a curve, to let oncoming traffic know he was there.  Several times, one vehicle had to back up until there was room to pass.  The driver frequently shifted into 4-wheel drive, causing us to wonder how the ordinary vans ever made the trip.  Bill and Rodney and the other four had to stand up holding on to railings on the truck, as it was too bumpy and uncomfortable to try and sit in the truck bed.  We were about 20 minutes from our destination, after dark, when we came to a small village where they were having a religious parade in the middle of the road.  About 40 men, women and children were holding candles accompanied by several others who were carrying a "float" with a statue of Christ carrying the cross or swinging pots of smoke. They would kneel down while the leader read passages from a book, and then they would stand and walk slowly forward while singing.  After doing this four times in complete darkness except for their candles, as there was no electricity in the town, they finally came to a place in the road where they could step aside to let us through.  They were Mayan Christians performing the parade for Lent.


BB court at Nickle mine camp

Taking a break on a bridge

View from the bridge
 We finally made it to our destination, El Retiro Lodge in Lanquin, about 8:00 P.M.  After a buffet meal in the dining room, we were directed to our rooms.  Rodney and Katrina were lucky to get the last room with a private bath, while we got a private "hut" with one "matrimonial " bed, a small table and a bookcase.  The group toilets and showers were a short walk up stone steps.  The backpackers usually stay in dormitories for 6 to 12 persons.


Our private abode

Our room the first night at El Retiro Lodge

One of the sinks outside the showers

Truly a "throne," up 3 steps over septic tank
 The next morning, we saw that we were in a beautiful, riverside compound of palapas and wood buildings.  The open-air restaurant and bar down by the river served adequate food and was a fun gathering place for people from all over the world, the four of us being the oldest.  The second night, we were able to get a room with private bath, so didn't have to climb up the outside stairs to the toilet.

The morning after we arrived, we signed up for a tour of Semuc Champey.  That adventure to follow.

Back in Guatemala

We flew back to Guatemala City on January 16 and spent two nights in our usual hotel, Los Torres.  We visited some of our favorite shops and went back to the big Central Market for a few more Mayan souvenirs, now that we have a condo to put them in!  Rodney and Katrina from Angelina arrived on the 17th, and the next morning our marina manager, John, picked us up in his newly acquired van for the trip back to the Rio Dulce and our boats.  We enjoyed the ride and didn't miss the usual violent Spanish movie they show on the bus.

It was good to find Mobetah bobbing happily in her slip at Monkey Bay Marina.  Not many changes noted except the caretaker's children have really grown since we left.  Abby (6) and Bertilda (4) head off to school every morning in the launcha, often accompanied by mom and brother, Thomas (2).  Alan, at almost 14, leaves way early in the morning for his job in town selling shrimp, and then he attends a private school in the afternoon, not arriving back home until almost 7 P.M.

Off to school

Alan in school uniform with Spice, the marina dog

Abby, Thomas, and Bertilda love to pose for pictures

We got back into the marina life of boat work, happy hour, pot lucks, trips to town for shopping and trying various restaurants.  The only boaters left at Monkey Bay besides us and Angelina were Art and Renie on Jewell and Vonnie and Ray on Wishbone.  Ralph and Cheryl came for a week to check on their boat, Fortuitous, before they left for Chile for a year, where Ralph will be working.

The weather made boat work difficult.  It has been one of the rainiest years in Guatemala in ten years.  There were days of unending downpours.  Our caretaker, Efrain, has had to work hard at keeping the "green" from taking over the boats and marina.  It took us almost three weeks to get four coats of varnish on the exterior brightwork, since there weren't many sunny days.  Finally, by mid-February, we were ready to have the boat hauled for what we anticipated to be a 4 or 5 day "bottom job."  We have always done our own bottom painting, but in doing so, we just kept adding layer upon layer of bottom paint, so we decided with the inexpensive labor prices here, we would have them remove all the old paint.  It was kind of fun to watch three or four men scraping and sanding the bottom of our boat.  It was slower than we had hoped, but finally, after a week, they put on the first coat of bottom paint.  We expected the second coat the next day and then getting back in the water.  Unfortunately, the day before this should have happened, the one-and-only travel lift operator got mad at the boss and quit, so there was no one to put our boat back in the water.  They had to wait a week for someone from Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin, where they build Travel Lifts, to come down to train more operators!  Thus, it was the end of February before Mobetah was back in the water.

We were fortunate to have our marina owner offer to let us sleep in his vacation house while the boat was in the yard.  We did all our cooking out in the cruisers' kitchen and spent much time in the cruisers' palapa, when not at the boat yard.  By the time we finally got back on the boat, we had stuff scattered all over the marina.  Now it is time to finish getting the boat ready for cruising.

Karl (The Marina Owner's) Vacation Home

Interior of Karl's Vacation Home

Bill at the Kitchen Bar


Tuesday, March 6, 2012

2011 in the U.S.

We flew from Guatemala City to Houston and Chicago on June 6.  The next two months were spent between Pat's sister's house in Milwaukee and her brother-in-law's mother's house in Butte des Morts, Wisconsin, near Oshkosh.  Much of the time was occupied with routine medical care, and Pat had carpal tunnel release surgery (getting old is not for sissies!).  In mid-August, we flew to Seattle, to spend two weeks with another of Pat's sisters.  We toured the Space Needle,  the Ballard Locks, and downtown Seattle one day, including the fish market.  Other days were spent taking ferry rides to various islands in Puget Sound, and visiting Mount St Helens and the S. W. Washington Fair.  The highlight  of the trip (at least for Pat) were visits from her sister in Milwaukee, her sister from Orange County, CA, and her niece from Hollywood, CA. Bill and her brother-in-law, Irv were bombarded by constant women talking! We all went to Vashon Island one day for a barbecue with Pat's nephew and his family, who live there. During our last few days there, we went to the cabin near Hoodsport and hiked some in Olympic National Park.

Irv &Nancy (Lunch at Port Townsend)

Pat with her sisters in Seattle
 .
World Famous Fish Market
The Locks
Mt. St. Hellens
Bill had been researching real estate during the summer and found some interesting properties in N.W. Florida.  So, late in august, we headed south in the car, stopping in northern Indiana to visit Nancy and Steve, who have visited us twice on our boat in the western Caribbean.  We rented a condo at Tidelands in Palm Coast, Florida to see how we would like living in that area.  We fell in love with it and decided to try for one of the condos that was in foreclosure.  While we were there, Pat's stepson and his family from Atlanta came down to spend a week with us.  We had fun doing "grandparenting" things, like lots of pool time, visiting the beach and spending a day at SeaWorld.  Bill spent a lot of time researching foreclosures and going to auctions at the courthouse.  We stayed through October to try for the condo we liked, but that fell through, so we headed back up to Wisconsin, with our sites on another foreclosure coming up in December.


Curtis with the kids

Rebecca with the kids
November was spent in Butte des Morts, where we decided to put a new engine in our trusty old Lexus.  (You know us boaters--always thinking of "re-powering.")  We enjoyed Thanksgiving with the Wisconsin family and even did a little shopping for the condo (which we did not own) at the worlds greatest hardware store (located in Butte De Morte, Wi).  As winter was beginning to set in, we packed up everything that we had been storing in Pat's sister's basement for the past ten years and hauled it to Atlanta in a little trailer behind the car.  
Pat with friend at the Hardware Store

Early winter view from the house at Butte De Mortte
We visited the kids again, added things stored in their basement to our trailer, and headed back to Palm Coast.   We attended the auction at the courthouse on Dec. 7 and won the bid on our "dream" condo.  After waiting the requisite ten days (actually twelve due to the weekend,) we were granted the deed to our condo. 

We had not been able to get into the condo before the auction, but it was the exact lay-out of the one we had rented, and we could peek through cracks in the blinds, so knew it was in decent condition.  It had been vacant for almost two years, so when we finally got in, there was some slight mold and dust, but otherwise, it was in good shape.  We spent the next week scrubbing everything from top to bottom.  Having no furniture, we brought an inflatable bed and bought a patio table and chairs at the Salvation Army, so kind of "camped out" at first in the condo.  We were able to get some more furniture on Craig's list, so are partway through with furnishing the condo.  We spent Christmas and New Year's getting acquainted with some of our new neighbors and the surrounding area. 
Front of our new condo

ICW side of our condo

Kitchen & Dining Room as seen from the Living Room

View of ICW from our living room

Furniture form Craigslist

Pat's Christmas Present

Another Christmas Present for Pat
On January 15, we put the car and codo in storage mode and flew from Orlando to Houston and then back to Guatemala and the boat.